Cycling (maybe) Poland 2018

Errors, errata, etc. will gradually be eradicated – when spotted..

Bristol to Bradfield via Ardleigh – May 31

Left No. 67 at 15:30 after packing in heavy rain showers and much paranoia locking up the house.

The journey was quite uneventful although interspersed with more heavy, thunderous  showers. There was some heavy traffic, especially on the M25,  so we arrived in the Ardleigh vicinity at 19:30 only to miss our last turn and end up continuing  up the A12 for an extra 10 miles – most annoying. Having found our appointed campsite we discovered that there was a distinct lack of any facilities – no shower block or toilet. Kate was not happy. We therefore repaired to The Lion in Ardleigh who advised us of a campsite behind a big pub in Bradfield. After some urgent refreshment we headed towards the suggestion who seemed to be expecting us. Not the cheapest campsite in the world but pleasant and well appointed. We made camp and I sat in my chair as per my custom with a Pete and Alison beer in hand while Kate prepared chicken curry and rice (the rice, as per Paul’s advice, was very nice). I became very dozy and subsided at 23:10.

Bradfield to Harwich(Dovercourt) – June 1

Awoke at 7 to the sound of the dawn chorus – pied wagtails, blackbirds, sparrows, etc.

Tea then Branston baked beans, hard boiled eggs, olive oil toast and peanut butter plus coffee and almost one packet of “G an P” biscuits.

After the the usual ablutes and tidying we decamped and promptly drove onto brand new tarmac…

One hour and eight miles later we escaped the guerrilla tarmacing teams who had the whole area in lock down with seemingly a total disregard for the needs of local traffic flow near an international ferry port. None of the  publicans, newsagents or local residents seemed to be aware that a huge team of road construction workers would descend on the area on 1st June. Not even the bus drivers were aware. Kate had to negotiate the opening of a road, becoming somewhat essential as we only had a quarter tank of fuel. Many motorists, including me, were grateful!! Rant over!!!

The rest of the day was pleasantly uneventful. A quick refuel in Morrisons followed by finding somewhere to buy ferry tickets for the following morning. This “necessitated” booking into a Premier Inn near the ferry port. Then off to the town centre (of Dovercourt) to find a Natwest  – unfortunately we were four years too late!  Instead we had spicy Mexican chicken sandwiches on the cliff top followed by a nice pot of tea in a cafe watching a lorry driver at work. Then back to the Premier for a power nap. Later a Brewers Fayre meal (pleasant but not up to Hattie standards) and a few glasses of wine.

Smug

Smug at the Brewers. In need of a haircut – but no baldy bits yet…

Harwich to Delft – June 2

Awoken at 6!  Breakfast at 7:20. On the ferry by 8:30 after a pat down body search… Settled down to a long, long, eight hour crossing alleviated by pictures of satellite dish hats at the royal wedding in Private Eye. Arrived 16:30 local after a very smooth crossing.

Extricated ourselves from the ferry and drove to a campsite Kate thought she knew in Delft. We arrived an hour later, after many roundabouts, at Delfste Hout.  This was very busy, but a short wait later Kate had organised us a three night stay. We found our spot, set up camp and settled down to cricket on long wave 198 to the consternation of our neighbours who thought it too loud… Fortunately, at this point, the cricket had come to an end. Herring pasta with spring greens for tea and apple for afters.

Delft Day 1 – June 3

A cup of lemon tea at seven as the fridge was blocked by the bed so no access to the milk. Spaghetti rings for breakfast.

After the usual morning sorting out we prepared bicycles for a saunter into the centre of Delft at 12 noon.

Stopped at cafe 1 which was shut. Stopped at cafe 2 in the central square, liquids only. Cafe 3, in the old town, finally provided some lunch. I had Indonesian chicken, Kate had Goats cheese, walnuts, raisins, pesto and rocket – “very tasty”.

We then went walking in circles looking for the tourist information centre. Which we found, but not before Kate found a Delft china shop… presents were bought! Got back to  camp, sat in the sun and listened to England about to win – by an innings and 55 runs – hooray – at last!! Then tea of chicken, lentils, red pepper, red onion, garlic, broccoli and a glass of wine – each. Death on the Nile with Kevin Brannagh for our evening watch. Very good – I can recommend.

Delft – Day 2 – June 4

Awoke a little later than previously – 8 o’clock – to lemon tea. Then breakfast of coco pops,  fruit bun and coffee. After some pottering we had a gentle amble to a local cafe about half a mile away for cappuccino, bird watching/feeding, a farm for the under fives and to eat our picnic for lunch. We were thinking of a canal tour, but, as this was not available, we sauntered back to camp where I sat down and had a read in the afternoon sun while Kate went exploring on her Cannondale F1 – Lewis. The exploring was very pleasant, reminiscent of the herons on the Nenon last year – apparently.

I did some organising of the van, water, bikes, etc. for a prompt getaway in the morning while Kate prepared vegetable rice (the right amount of rice thrown in this time…) and ratatouille beef olive   – and a glass of Merlot. All very tasty. Now for an evening of sorting destinations for the morrow – and a watch of another Grand  Tour.

Delft to Osnabruck – June 5

Travelling day so early start this morning – away by 10:30 after settling the bill. Remarkably cheap – 3 nights for 41 euros. Drove for a 100 kilometres (100k) passing Utrecht on the A1/E30, eventually stopping at a Macdonald’s, of all places, for a break. Kate enjoyed her crispy chicken burger!! Finally remembered to fit the dip beam deflectors. Drove for another 100k across the German border without stopping only to be thwarted 2k from our destination by roadworks diversions. We did an extra 20k, finally arriving at Camping Bullerby at 16:00 where we booked for two nights.

Lovely site by Lake Attersee although the facilities were limited. Some of these were discovered later in the evening, but definitely no WiFi. Kate went for a recce ride searching for an elusive restaurant and did one lap of the lake. I settled down to another pleasant evening snoozing in the sun with a beer and my German for Dummies while Kate prepared Cheese Surprise on her return – sweet onion, cheese and pea omelette with an avocado starter and a fruit cocktail dessert.

Osnabruck – Day 1 – June 6

Awoke early to a really sunny, warm morning. Breakfast outside – beans and veggie sausages – out of a tin. After the usual chores Kate road in search of a Supermarkt while I sat and soaked up the sun. Kate returned at midday having largely failed to find a decent shopping experience after a fairly scary ride negotiating with large trucks for road space. So we had crab, out of a can, surprise sandwich for lunch and coffee. Phoned G to ask after Mrs Field senior (mother, 89) as it was her birthday. All ok, the birthday meal was fully consumed. Then we had an ice cream followed by a pedalo ride round the Attersee. Many ducks, coots and dragonflies to be seen and some reverse mooring to finish. A look at the Attersee from the point of view of paddling was done but it was too “slimy” for our taste. So we went for a brief ride on the bikes searching for photo opportunities. Returned to beer and wine followed by chilli and rice. Very nice.

Osnabruck to Stove/Drage – June 7

Back online at last! No WiFi for the last two days. Yet another lovely morning so we got sorted and set out early by 10 o’clock – is that a record? 37 euros for 2 day stay – not bad. Drove up the A1 for an hour until we hit traffic which got slower and slower and hotter and hotter. Pursey – my phone – told us the delay was 11 minutes. After an hour we had become completely stationary… so we decided to go off at junction 27 to Langwedel – finally stopping for elevenses at 1 o’clock. Not the best services we’ve ever been to but it did a job – too many flies for my liking. Then on to Rotenburg, where we did some nice shopping, and Tosdedt . Finally arriving at Stover Strand on the Elbe at 16:00 where we booked for four nights. We settled down by the river between two trees – and close to a loo block… Salami cheese salad for tea with beer and wine. Then a little walk on the beach by the river and back to beer and watching the sun set.

Stover Strand – Day 1 – June 8

Awoken at 7:30 although told it was 8:30! Poached eggs and tomato with rice for brekker.
After the usual pottering we walked to reception for a bus to Hamburg. We had just missed the 11:13. There was not another until 13:00. Kate walked a mile to locate the bus stop for future reference and then we walked back to Hattie for another coffee. Kate went for a long, hot rather boring local ride, apart from spotting a hare, while I checked various van fluids. After the lunch that we were going to take to Hamburg, Kate went shopping… She returned after half an hour with many bottles and bratwurst. We finally got to using our chess set – I lost – and then brat and rat (bratwurst and ratatouille) for tea – plus beer and wine…. A pleasant evening ensued until the midges arrived at 10:00. Locked ourselves in Hattie and more or less passed out.

P.S. Got paid today by the DWP – the first one!

Stover Strand – Day 2 – June 9

Awoke at 7 this morning – green tea, breakfast and coffee all at the same time – we want to catch a bus. Left camp at 10:30 (I only needed one token for the shower…) with me looking like an American tourist apparently. We caught the bus to Winsen, after a walk of circa one kilometre, at 11:15. Then caught a very crowded train into Hamburg. Standing room only and nothing to hang onto. Kate was not happy. After half an hour we arrived in Hamburg in urgent search of cappuccino and diet coke which we ordered in a very quiet café. After half an hour we knew why. Service was so slow and disorganized that we left after our drinks and moved to a bar/restaurant that seemed busy and was actually serving food. I had Hamburger Schnitzel and a Pilsener, Kate had some of my chips and a mineral water.. Then to a Stadtrundfahrt bus that took us round Hamburg for two hours in the blistering afternoon sun. I’m still not sure what we gleaned from this, but then I’ve been to Hamburg before. We did have glimpses of the botanical gardens, waterways, some of the 2000 bridges, the harbourside and the big water park. And so to our return to camp – this was fine despite Kate’s worst fears. We got seats on the train and the bus was prompt and, apart from not being quite sure where to get off, we were back in camp by 18:00. We thought about a camp restaurant meal but, as this seemed busy, we settled for a few beers after a busy day, Brat and Rat II and another watch of Death on the Nile. Kate still fell asleep… One day we’ll get beyond the first 40 minutes.

Stover Strand – Day 3 – June 10

Awoke at our usual time to a slightly cooler morning. We decided to have a quiet day today. Although Kate did a lot of walking and riding with washing, shopping, etc. A light lunch with pork pate that Kate insisted was salmon. The weather looked a bit threatening so Kate went for a quick ride before it broke while I tried my bike around the campsite. Kate was back an hour later. She might have gone further, but it became a bit too “midgey”. A bit more pottering and then to the camp restaurant at 19:00. Two bottles of Riesling, schnitzel (for Kate) and roast beef later – oh – and a large pile of ice cream we got back to Kevin Branagh again. This time we got to the end… although I’m still not sure how much Kate took in.

Stover Strand to Rostock – June 11

Awoke at seven. We seem to be getting earlier and earlier. Straight to breakfast.
We left at 10, got held up for a while by a huge camper van (the same one as in the photos), handed back the leccy key and went on our way. An uneventful journey via Lübeck, Wismar and some roadworks with a brief stop for lunch just after Wismar. Arrived Markgafenheide – north of Rostock – at 14:30 for a one night stay. We were on the wrong pitch to start with, but that was soon sorted, (International incident avoided …) and so settled down to a bit more sun and beer. A strong breeze was predicted so we didn’t deploy the awning. Kate found the camp Supermarkt and prepared Bigos with German elements. Then a little evening Womble, so I was told, which lasted more than an hour. But we did finally get to see the billowing sea, a nice sandy beach and the setting sun on the horizon. Plans were made for the remainder of the evening, but we fell asleep instead…

Markgafenheide to Koserow – June 12

Awoke a little later than usual. Breakfast of scrambled eggs and salmon. Then we discussed the next part of the journey taking us well into Poland i.e Kolobrzegs, but as this was further than we thought in one go we settled for Koserow instead. Packed and left at 11:30 on another uneventful journey except we had rain for the first time in ages, a significant diversion off the A20 at Langsdorf and a stop for fuel and a Subway Sub – although Kate had a very good salad with Mexican chicken. And then Kate found an ALDI in Wolgast…  One hour later we resumed our journey arriving  Am Sandal camping just before 16:00. Kate booked two nights. We made camp with very convenient electricity, water, etc and sat down and discussed where to go next. I had discovered that the ferry to continue along the coast was expensive and only available between 10pm and 4am!! Kate wants to see Poznan so that is where we are headed next – back down south away from the York latitudes. A bottle of Rhinewein was found, mushroom stroganoff and rice prepared, finally settling to watching the Long Way Round and then to my lovely new pillow…

Am Sandal – Day 1 – June 13

Awoke at 7, eggs, bacon and tomatoes for breakfast. After the usual preliminaries Kate went for a walk towards the coast, saw the sea (Baltic?) and some nice rides through the woods. On her return we attempted to play table football without a ball and then salami, cheese and gherkins for lunch. After which Kate went to find another Supermarkt. On her return she left on Lewis seeking photo opportunities on the coast again. Then table football – 10 3 to me!! Then beef olives for tea with broccoli and sweet potatoes – that I cooked. Then the Long Way Round as far as Russia then early to bed as an early start was condidered necessary.

Am Sandfeld – Poznan – June 14

Awoke at 6, left at 9:30 – a new record. Much waving goodbye. Hattie climbed the steep slope out of the site easily and very impressively. An easy if long drive to Poznan ensued with a stop for lunch at the border – which included windscreen cleaning negotiations… and lots of lettuce… Some heavy braking in Poznan to avoid colliding with mad cyclists finally ending up in the Hotel Wloski – very nice. Kate wants to be in the centre of town to absorb the atmosphere so books four nights. Beer in the bar then dinner in the restaurant – spaghetti for Kate, chicken penne for me – also very nice – and surprisingly cheap. Proper bed at 22:30 – lovely…

Poznan – Day 1,2 and 3 – June 15,16 and 17

Three days of getting up late, 8 o’clock, to lovely hotel breakfast with hot options, continental buffet, Polish apple cake and cheese cake (sernik). Then walks into town in glorious weather to see the Ratutz, Katedra, various bars and restaurants – including the special Polish restaurant Ratusova where we had borscht and pierogi – lovely – and some Prosecco… Then returning to drinks in the car park bar at the hotel. I am now worn out with all the walking. 30 degrees on the Sunday although a Polish strawberry doughnut (paczek) helped.

Poznan to Potsdam – June 18

Now to whizz back across Germany for home. Left the hotel at 11:30 and arrived  at posh German camping Konnigslicher Camping Sanssouci at 16:00. Don’t worry – we did stop a couple of times… There were no credit card facilities so we had to temper our spending . We still managed some very good goulash and a watch of the footie with a few other Brits, steins of beer and the ocassional German popping in. England 2 Tunisia 1! Just!! Very nerve wracking, but a good watch.

Potsdam to Hannover – June 19

Left at 10 after a somewhat fitful night. Arrived Camping Birkensee at 14:10 – almost an hour too early, but we were let in at dead on 15:00. We settled down and went to the bar for quite a few beers, currywurst and pommes and Poland versus Senegal. A quote from Kate “A disappointingly lack lustre performance which gifted the opposition two easy goals”  They had better do better next time or Kate will be ripping up her Polish passport that she hasn’t got yet. We thought about watching the Russian game but we were a bit tired so went back our nice tidy van and crashed out…

Hannover to Arnhem – June 20

We had an intriguing breakfast of egg, bacon, chopped tomato and mushrooms in a bowl with a shortbread dunking biscuit each and left at 10:30. After one or two stops, arrived Camping Warnsborn at 15:30. A very nice site where we booked two nights on one of the last few spare places next to fellow three wheel motorcycle enthusiasts on a Gold Wing outfit. Kate is not too keen on sidecars, Too low. Tea of Stroganoff, sweet potatoes, broccoli and pickled beetroot outside under the awning as a defence against the evening sun. Surprisingly good. And a watch of the evening football. Spain 1  Iran 0

Arnhem – Day 1 – June 21 – The longest day

Wet and windy today. The first really iffy weather we’ve had. Typical for mid summers day… Kate went riding – twice. Firstly through the local countryside to the supermarket for supplies. The second on a circular route through the forests on the edge of Arnhem navigating  by the dutch cycle route number system – which is excellent. I caught up  with the Grand Tour, listened to the cricket, watched the football and other admin matters. Tea consisted of fried sauted potatoes and chicken ceaser salad. I did the cooking bit… Surprisingly it was all very nice. As the weather is now a little imperfect we’ve decided to try and get a ferry tomorrow.

Arnhem to Hook of Holland – June 22

Left camp at 11 and drove to and around the centre of a very busy Arnhem, nearly getting stuck under a 2 metre car park height gauge, and eventually crossing the John Frost bridge. Arnhem was a little disappointing. It was quite modern looking and busy so we left and drove on to the Hook. A busy route but essentially uneventful except for emergency braking for trucks and ducks and some confusing roundabouts near the Hook. We arrived at 16:00 local, booked onto the 22:00 overnight ferry and included a cabin. Then we chilled for four hours with a bit of shopping, a bit of exploring and a nice meal (including dessert – see below!) We were loaded onto the ferry, after some minor confusion as to which lane to be in, at 19:30. We then had a nice supper (Kate had fish and chips) while still in port and then, as we started to leave,  to our nice bunks where I slept well. Too much vibration for Kate though.

Big ice cream

Bigger than we were expecting….

Hook of Holland to Bristol – June 23

Awoken at 5:30 – so, although I slept well, I would have liked longer. Kate got me a coffee and a croissant so that I was more able to venture down from deck 11 to deck 3 at 6:15 to drive Hattie off the ferry. We were off by 6:45. Remembering to drive on the left, we stopped for fuel at the Morrison’s we used on the way out and then on to the A120/A12 in glorious morning sunshine. We stopped a couple times, including a nice breakfast at South Mimms, and eventually arrived Montreal Avenue at 13:00. Not a great adventure but adventurous enough for me.

The End – For now…

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