The Alternative Grand Tour – Part 1
or
The Following of EuroVeloRoute 6
Numbers in kilometres (although the word miles is often used – poetically?) Imperfections will be sorted out gradually…
ENGLAND
Day 1 22nd March 2017
Bristol to Portsmouth
Arrived in good time, despite traffic on the M3, to take a Brittany Ferry from Portsmouth to St Malo. Left on time at 20:15 and arrived on time at 07:15 alpha. A very smooth crossing, gently rocked to sleep, after an ok meal, in a surprisingly comfortable cabin – amazing!!
FRANCE
Day 2 23rd March Thursday
St Malo (St Nazaire) to Nantes 38 19 = 57 k
Drove gently down to Nantes. A Croque Monsieur each for breakfast in a typical small town brasserie just before Rennes. The TomTom sat nav working well. Some roadworks traffic but we still arrived in Nantes in the early afternoon. A pleasant late lunch in another brasserie. We then moved into our prebooked hotel as required – including the bikes. We even managed to park immediately outside… Kate cooked tea French style in the room’s kitchenette – garlic, olive oil and wine.
Day 3 24th March
Nantes to Ancensis and then beyond Angers 28 10 30 29 = 97
A beautiful spring day, Breakfast in Jardin de Plantes, Sunshine on the Loire. Beautiful wild flowers, birdsong and pleasant temperature. First use of Hattie with me going to Acensis first and then riding back to meet Kate in Oudon before returning to Acensis. Have now driven to just beyond Angers (Trelaze)
Day 4 25th March Saturday
Back to Ancensis!! To find Kate’s Garmin and Exposure lamp. To no avail. Gone. Oh dear!!
Drove to Montjean instead and had coffee in Bar de la Marine. The bar was full of jolly locals. We then rode to Chalonnes and back – into wind on the way- via the Ile de Chalonnes. Coffee again in Bar de la Marine on the return. Then we drove back to Hotel de Loire in Trelaze. Beautiful weather all day apart from a significant wind. We are now having another wonderful meal in the hotel as I write.
On the way to Chalonnes
Day 5 26th march
Trelaze to Touraine 27 30 24 36 36 = 153 k
We were going to cycle from St Mathurin but the road ran alongside the river so beautifully we drove (after paying the “interesting” hotel bill and some Hattie fettling) to La Chappelle aux Naux . We cycled together from there to Villandry. Quite a tourist spot this latter with nice cafes etc. And a major meeting place for horse people and for classic car owners – especially Volvos on this occasion – some of which, although looking really good, definitely needed some engine tuning.
We returned to La Chappelle aux Naux and drove from there to a campsite, Les Acacias, in Touraine (Just outside Tours) where we had a nice glass or two of Chateau Amboise in the lovely evening sunshine.
Day 6 27th March Monday
Touraine to Chateauneuf sur Loire. 28 41 18 17 41 41 = 186 kÂ
Started late after campsite breakfast and ablutions and good Hattie sort out. Drove to Blois had late lunch of chips and beer. Kate did not approve (Hobsons choice). Rode to La Nazee and back (circa 30k). Drove to Chateueauneeuf (a whole lot further than intended looking for a campsite). Nice hotel and meal with good view of bridge over the river though.
Total so far 493 k
Day 7 28th March Tuesday
Drove to Sully sur Loire, explored the town briefly and then cycled the alternative route to St Gondon. Not much doing so rode back to Lion. Still not much doing so rode back to Sully quickly on the official route to give a Kate a proper work out. We had a chat with the tourist office at last followed by late lunch in the Attrium. Lasagne, beer and coffee. Kate did some Carrefour shopping. We returned over the bridge to St Pere to a lovely campsite and picked a spot by the river. Wine and a late evening meal in pleasant sunshine. Perfect. No official miles today though.
Day 8 29th March Wednesday
Sully sur Loire to Nevers 29 22 27 27 = 105
Drove the D roads to Cosne Cours, very close to a nuclear power station at Belleville at one point, where we had a nice late lunch (Croques, coffee and Orangina) and Kate did some shopping. Then we took the A77 down to Nevers camping using Tommy again. No toll charge to pay strangely.
We had misgivings about the campsite but it has proved very pleasant here alongside La Loire, although the Wifi is a bit localised. We set up camp and went shopping on the bikes via the cathedral with its strangely modern stained glass. I managed to pull a back muscle coming back although it seems ok now. Kate cooked a lovely chilli washed down with much wine….
Total to date 598
Day 9 30th March Thursday
Nevers to Chevanon 15
One or two heads this morning…. We didn’t get going until 13:00. We managed 27k though. We wanted to head back down river towards Cuffy etc. but found ourselves on the canal going the other way. This was so pleasant and the weather so fantastic we carried on to Chevenon popping into Sermoise sur Loire on the way. Again a pleasant late lunch watching a race pelaton go by. We returned at 20 kph with a view to going on to Challuy but Kate fancied shopping and laundry (I now have some beautifully laundered money…) while I lay in the sun with a beer instead… Tonight’s supper is chicken salad with white and red wine.
Total to date 613
Day 10 31stth March Friday
DETOUR – Nevers to Apremont
No sore heads today… Less of the wheaty beer… Pottered in the morning. Kate did a lovely cooked breakfast and washed the van. I topped up the water bottles etc. etc. Finally got going at our, now, usual time (13:00 European) with the weather starting to look less promising! First of all we needed to agree on the correct way to go which we did eventually achieve finding a sign pointing to Chaully using yesterday’s canal in the opposite direction. After about 3k we found a very back water café near a small canal marina with an enthusiastic, friendly proprietor who had to have a chat even though she spoke no English. Luckily Kate understood most of what she said. After yet another pleasant late lunch we set off for the pont canal enroute to Apremont (the rain was spitting a little at this stage). We rode across the bridge. We probably shouldn’t have as it was quite scary with low railings quite high over a gushing weir one side and a canal the other. Any deviation and you would get wet – at least. We thought we needed to take the road from here but we found Verte 10 took us most of the way. Apremont was very pretty, the French equivalent of Castle Combe. The best view of the medieval houses was had from the river front. The only brasserie sadly was ferme – until the 1ST . France should be open then!!
As we left the rain started in earnest so we retraced our tracks at high speed. Got back a little damp just after 17:00. 42k – our longest yet, but no official miles. Two fish supper which Kate obtained in the rain from Carrefours, Nevers.
Day 11 1st April Saturday
Nevers to Degoin 102
Very heavy rain overnight but Hattie didn’t leak at all – although I did – using Hattie’s new inside toilet (too much information perhaps…?).
We had to get going promptly (Breakfast at 8!) as we were supposed to be out by ten, but what with topping up water cans, emptying “loos”, washing up and drying awnings we eventually left at 10:45. Started by heading down the N7 (through many a heavy shower) until I noticed the external power point cover was loose so we stopped off and closed it properly by which time we were on a D road. The N road was good but as the D road followed La Loire more closely this we continued, especially as we touched Magny Cours… We stopped at 12 (early for us) in Decize for a very pleasant plat du jour (Salmon salad with pasta (gorgeous tomatoes). We continued on after lunch through pleasant countryside, river views and bird spotting (kestrels, low flying buzzards and possibly an owl). Arrived at Camping Cheverette in Degoin at 14:30. Booked straight in, set up camp, had a cup of tea and a glass of wine. With the weather improving we cycled into town and found an Aldi. Kate was in her element! Finished shopping and rode back along the canal and Loire (including what Kate called a scary bit – a narrow path on top of a steep bank with pave which did lead to the campsite – but no way in!!) Got back by retracing our steps. Tonight’s supper is “Merguez bourginon”.
Total to date 700
Day 12 2nd April Sunday
Degoin to Paray le-Monial. 15
Pain au chocolat for breakfast (at 8 again!). This meant we got away relatively early after some pottering while we waited for the weather to improve. It did brighten up slightly at 12:30 so we set off. A pleasant ride to Paray ensued alongside a strangely meandering canal to a nearly deserted town. A pleasant picnic lunch at 13:30 next to a theatre building, orange blossom and fritterleria. Rained quite heavily as we explored the town including an impressive abbey. Took some photos and then returned at relatively high speed as the sky looked quite threatening. No rain luckily and a clear siting of a large kite right over the canal. Even higher speed towards the end. Kate struggled to keep up… We tried to find a shop open in Digoin. Failed so we returned to Hattie for tea and biccys. We walked to the the nearest brasserie later for a four course meal and two bottles of chateau la bataille.
Total to date 715
Day 13 3rd April Monday
Degoin to Chalon sur Saone. 106
A sunny but cool morning, early breakfast again and a surprisingly prompt start as we were away by 11. We were quite soon on the N routes and pretty much got all the way to Chalon without interruption although we did stop briefly to try and get the next campsite into the satnav – the operative word being try… So we drove into the centre of Chalon following signs to Decathlon a shop Kate wanted to visit – the main reason for coming to Chalon. |We failed in this too but found signs to the campsite instead. These we followed successfully and booked in finding in the process that we were close to Decathlon after all. We set up camp had a glass of wine, We then cycled to the shops, spent a lot of money in the aforesaid Decathlon followed by LDL. Got home and tried out our new purchases in the late afternoon sun, including a comfy outdoor chair, a splendid glass or two of Bordeaux and a magnificent canard pate encroute salad.
Total to date 821
Day 14 4th April Tuesday
Chalon sur Saone to Dole. 109
We left Chalon promptly at 11 in more nice weather. More of a shopping stop than anything else. Also Dole onwards seemed more attractive from a cycling and visit point of view.
It was less than 40 miles by road to Dole so we we arrived at 13:00 and stopped at an Intermarche (tonights meal is coq au vin) before finding the campsite. This was closed until 14:00 so we had a nice salad lunch in Hattie. Reception opened and I booked us in for a change (I even ordered croissants for the morning….). We set up camp quickly (we’re getting quite good at this!) sorted out out the bikes and went for a late afternoon ride towards Orchamps finishing in Andelange. No bar so we came back with many heron sightings and and enjoyed the change in landscape – cliffs and weirs etc.
Total to date 930
Day 15 5th April Wednesday
Dole to Chalezeule 62
A slow start after much wine the previous night… Preordered croissants (the best in France..) were collected, eventually, and a steady start was made to the day leaving at 12 in warm sunny weather. Pottered into Besancon after an hour or so, parked, and had a pleasant stroll and lunch (tartes flambaise) in the centre. We thought of moving on to Baume Les Dames but there were no campsites in the area so back to Plan A. We are now stopping the night in the gulag – sorry – Camping Besancon. As it was difficult to get on the veloroute from here (there were many busy roads to cross) we had a short ride to yet another huge Carrefour (tool chests look good value…). Tonight’s meal is Omelette Besancon (i.e. Everything that needs to be used up).
Total to date 992
Day 16 6th April Thursday
Chalezeule to Mulhouse 125
Escaped the Gulag at noon after some Linnet spotting and drove directly to Mulhouse stopping only for lunch in pleasant sunshine, when sheltered from the easterly wind, in L’Isle sur le Doubs. We were going to stop at Borogne for some canal cycling but as the first ACSI campsite was in Mulhouse we decided to do the cycling from there. Arrived and set up camp at 15:30, put on bicycles and headed west at 16:15. We got a bit lost in the outskirts of Mulhouse but eventually found the canal which got us to Flaxladen. Kate found an excellent Boulangerie and small supermarche for supplies. We looked at the church and returned from there to Mulhouse pedalling into the easterly. Cheese and wine for tea. Museum(s) tomorrow.
Mulhouse
Total to date 1117
Day 17 7th April Friday
Mulhouse
A museum day. The Cite De la Automobile. 3.6k of cycling to get to it. 500 exhibits. Very impressive. Kate did some slightly fraught shopping on the way home. The L store she used seemed to be closing down. 10k of cycling but none enroute. So no official miles today. Luzern tomorrow. Cassoulet for tea. Out last French meal with vegetables that may be potatoes….
Some explanations:
- Hattie – the van
- Bernie the Volt – my e-bike
- Diana Dawes – Kate’s bike
- Pinky – Kate’s phone
- Bluey – My phone
- Mini me – Kate’s spare phone
- There are others….
AROOD - a record of our doings 